I was wondering where you went hehe.
Nope I use the same files for those as other things. It just takes a little longer to file the joints.
Nope I use the same files for those as other things. It just takes a little longer to file the joints.
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Messages - Dirili
« on: January 08, 2017, 01:29:00 PM »
np! You could pick up a few bait heads or dolls to start experimenting with? Perhaps trying it out on some no-pressure dolls will help you get comfortable with the idea of trying it for something big?
Unfortunately all my painted dolls that have properly sanded joints have been sold, so I don't have on on hand at the moment. But I took some pictures that can hopefully convey what the deal is. So the first picture is probably what you're experiencing right?
It's not so much a matter of the sealant not sticking, but more of an issue of the fact that the joints are somewhat tight, so when you bend them, it scrapes it off. It's like, no matter how strong your sealant is, if you scratch your doll's finish with your fingernail, it easily scrapes off. Primer makes it worse since it's thick. You need to sand the surface even lower to keep that from getting scraped off when the joint bends.
If you are painting the doll a completely different color and end up having to use a thick primer for that, then you'll want to use a rougher grade file to sand the joints deeper. You can smooth that out a bit with the finer grade diamond file. If you don't need to sand all that deep, you can just use the finer file to do the work. There isn't really any need to sand them any smoother, but you can if you like. At that point it's all about your personal taste. This does not effect the tightness of the joints because that factor is determined by the horizontal grip, so you don't have to worry about that.
« on: January 03, 2017, 06:02:15 PM »
Since last time I posted, I've done 3 more video tutorials:
Rerooting in shrunken heads:
Full body sanding/seam and molded underwear removal:
What you need to do to keep the paint from coming off when you bend the limbs is to sand the visible parts of the joints. It helps the sealant to stick, but more importantly it lowers the surface so that the limbs don't scrape it when the joint is moved. I'll try to remember to take some pictures tomorrow to post for you.
You're too hard on yourself! Those look fantastic! I can tell you're not new to art.
I don't think there's any right way to go along a line of progression to learn customization. I'd say just do what attracts you. Do what you feel like, what you enjoy. Some people ONLY do faceups. Some people ONLY reroot. Nothing wrong with any of that. Then there are people like you and I that like to try everything apparently lol. But there doesn't need to be any order to it, so don't worry about it!
« on: December 11, 2016, 04:50:25 PM »
« on: December 09, 2016, 07:27:12 PM »
Loving the very thorough tutorial!! And all your amazing repaints featured!!! *swoon*
Thanks! Hopefully I'll have at least one of the actual process tutorials up tomorrow. If I'm lucky, both!
« on: December 08, 2016, 02:20:59 PM »
Hopefully I'll have the actual tutorials of both the fast and slow methods up within the next few days, but for now, here's the intro video with some preliminary information that can help people determine what they want to do, and some things that don't work:
I'm so, so deeply grateful that you posted these gems of info! That is an amazing sand job and you're right the sandblocks are a bad idea, I've got myself some ultra fine sandpaper so I'm going to give this another try and use small pieces instead. I did rinse the doll several times but it just wouldn't get rid of the dustiness. That's how badly I had botched things lol. But sealing...gosh, I had not even thought of that. This is an immense help Dirili thank you again
np! Happy to help! I love experimenting and I love seeing other people experiment too and to be able to share information and all is fun ^_^
That's interesting about the hair. I mean, with the softener. I don't know anything about that, but I do wash dolls as much as I can before shrinking because the less pollutants, the better the process goes.
hehe, I LOVE seeing the blown up heads for some reason, and feeling them be all soft and jiggly. I think it's just fun being able to do that or something. But I don't fast shrink anymore. You seem to be working on a lot of EAH though which are usually safer for fast shrinking as most of the time the aren't terribly closely rooted. I know, I never had a single success fast shrinking a Frankie Stein though. After ruining 3 of them, I knew it was impossible lol. I guess all Frankies have their plugs rooted closely together.
I think I can help you a bit with sanding, particularly with dark dolls. I think your doll is still pretty dusty in the image though? You didn't rinse it? So it's a little difficult to tell how bad it really is. Anyway, a few weeks ago I sanded a Wydowna Spider which has obsidian black skin, so scratches show up on her better than ANY other doll lol. So, let me show you how she turned out in the end. Sorry she has some dust particles on her cause I was trying to choose some fabrics for her, but you can see she's pretty well smoothly sanded. Unfortunately I don't have any in-progress pictures because I didn't really think this would come up as something I would want or need to show anyone...
You should be able to click it to see a larger image with closer detail.
I have this tutorial about body sanding which could be worth a read for you too: http://www.dirili.com/mh/sanding.html
But I believe one of your biggest problems is from using a sanding block. The problem with those is that since it's large and a sorta hard block, it puts different amounts of pressure on different areas, so you don't have quite as much control. It's a little too heavy handed and not quite fine enough tool for working on small dolls. I always use sanding sponges/pads and tear off small pieces at a time to work with so that I can use it on concentrated areas and it won't accidentally nick other parts of the doll.
You can see in my tutorial that if there are protruding seems, I trim them very carefully with an exacto blade. If there is a seam where one side is a lot more raised than the other though, I use a diamond file that is medium-fine. Then I use a fine diamond file to smooth out the grooves from that, then grade down to a fine sanding pad. If there are still scratches, I take a Q-tip soaked in acetone and run it lightly over the area just once, and that slightly melts the plastic and smooths it out. Since it's just one pass, it evaporates within 10 seconds and doesn't do any damage.
When I sand underwear off, I veerry carefully cut off as much detail as I can with an xacto blade because if not, it takes a LOT of sandpaper, as you've probably already noticed. For the areas I can't reach with a fine diamond file, the roughest I use after that is a medium grade sanding sponge/pad, somewhat gently to make sure you don't end up putting deep groves in the plastic. Medium sandpaper can last quite a while, because it's best off for dolls when it loses it's grain a little.
Without the acetone wipe, you may still have some discoloration on the sanded spots because those are now matte whereas the rest of the body is basically semi-gloss. But when you spray seal the doll, that will disappear because the whole body will then be matte and it all evens out.
Oh, and something I forgot to mention, if you're using files, they get clogged kind of fast, so you need to have a cup of water and some paper towels nearby to rinse and wipe them often to retain their efficiency.
Also, on average it takes me about 8 hours to sand small dolls and 15 hours or so for 17" dolls, so that's how careful I am about it. I don't know any way to do it quicker and still get the same results.
« on: November 30, 2016, 08:16:44 PM »
Wow! I love the look you gave Maddie. Her new faceup makes her look really mature. And all those colors! They really pop.
Thanks! yeah, I really wanted to make the colors very saturated with her.
Iím starting a video series now on YouTube about the processes I use when doing my OOAK custom dolls.
Unfortunately the footage is a bit shaky and the audio isnít so great, but I ordered a few components so the rest of the videos can be better, and I may redo the premium treatment video altogether.
The first video just details the features that I put into what I call "premium treatment" for my dolls:
And the 2nd video deals with dehairing and face paint removal:
« on: November 12, 2016, 04:22:23 PM »
Thank you all so much!
Whew, I spent about a day and half just painting all those accessories! Those little patterns on the shoes and the gold dots around the teacup hat being particularly time consuming since I had to be so slow and careful. Totally worth it though for how they turned out!
« on: November 09, 2016, 02:41:35 PM »
Wow! That Maddie is amazing! What a wonderful job you did with her!
Thanks! I think the work was worth it.
« on: November 09, 2016, 11:43:08 AM »
Oh wow! I'd love to see some WIP pics of reshaping Apple's head, that process is just fascinating to me!
Ah, in my reshaping tutorial page, I do have 2 pictures of her in the first 2 stages of rough dremeling and smoother dremeling, but the rest of the tutorial only followed pictures of the Maddie I worked on. But you can see those here: http://www.dirili.com/mh/index.html
The detail on Dexter's body is amazing OMG! Well done!
Thanks! I'm so happy when people notice the detail I put into body painting because I try to be really meticulous about it, especially with the boys.
And for something new...
17″ Maddie with head shrunken and reshaping and a number of other modifications.There are so many details and Iím a terrible photographer, so I took a lot of pictures, not all of which are shown here.
Took me 15 hours to sand the seams off her body and 4 hours to reshape and sand her head. Well, I mean, with all the detail on this one, I spent a lot of time on many of the details, but I think sanding usually takes up most of my time hehe.
It may just be me, but I didnít like her painted on spotted tights, so I lightly blushed her pale legs to simulate plain white stockings.
Her necklace is sealed in gloss except for the bow which sealed in matte. Shoes sealed in gloss to make them look like glazed porcelain. The handle of her teacup headband sealed in gloss to enhance metallicness, and the top of the cup sealed in gloss to simulate liquid.
Shrunken and reshaped head
Full body sanding
Repaint and full body blushing and detail
Full stock clothing and accessories
Detailed repaint on all accessories
Sorry but you are not allowed to view spoiler contents.
Everyone else pretty much covered most of the things I could think of. It's definitely far better to reroot before repainting as it is sooo easy to slip up and scratch a faceup.
One thing that could also be a problem is that most spray sealants don't have much elasticity, and since vinyl heads are squishy, those less elastic sealants have a chance of cracking or separating from the vinyl every time it is flexed.
If for some reason it is unavoidable and you HAVE to repaint after rerooting, brush on sealants tend to be a bit more elastic I have found. I don't know if this would work or not, but since layers of sealant bond with each other, it could be possible to add a layer of brush-on sealant once the faceup is complete (after spray sealing of course) to lessen the chance of the faceup being damaged if you know the head is going to be squished occasionally. Definitely test on a bait doll first. I always use Tamiya for brush on sealants for accessories, since shoes and some other accessories have to flex to take off and put on, but spray sealants sometimes flake if I use it on them because of that.